#2209 The Likes List – S/S 2013 Menswear Edition:
1. I've never really paid much attention to Trussardi, but the Italian brand's Spring/Summer 2013 collection ended up being one of my favourites of the whole season. The above look reminds of that moment in the 90s when skaters were the most stylistically (albeit unexpectedly) influential group on the planet. This is luxury army surplus chic at its very best. I'd rock it in a heartbeat.
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| Trussardi S/S 2013. |
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| Lanvin S/S 2013. |
2. Lanvin's show was amazing and crazy and potentially impossible to wear all at the same time. But this look reminded me of my favourite Hedi Slimane Dior Homme show of all time –
S/S 2006. Sure, you might not want to wear it as a head-to-toe metal-on-metal extravaganza, but it's a fun idea.
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| Band of Outsiders S/S 2013. |
3. Scott Sternberg presented his Spring/Summer 2013 collection in a Parisian shop window where a lone model ate, slept, got changed and hung out for 60 hours straight while onlookers looked on, and 25,000 internet users watched over the live stream. He called it a protest against shows. More importantly, he summed up his brand, and menswear as a whole in these simple words to
style.com's Matthew Schneier: "It's not like I'm making a fashion statement here. You realize after a while, your fabric is your brand. Your fit is your brand.
They want to see the same thing in a fresh way every time." Well said.
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| Dior Homme S/S 2013. |
4. Kris Van Assche presented a thousand riffs on the blue suit in his S/S 2013 collection for Dior Homme, but it was this simple breton striped sweater paired with a red shirt and dark blue pants that did it for me. Naval rules. Look closely and you'll see the stripes are actually little ropes.
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| Gucci S/S 2013. |
5. If you've got the kind of money required to wear Gucci with gay abandon, you may as well go all out.
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| Hardy Amies S/S 2013. |
6. I know nothing about Hardy Amies as a brand, but judging by this collection, its designer Claire Malcolm is one to watch.
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| Hermes S/S 2013. |
7. At the end of the day, I'm a real conservative, wearable menswear type of guy, so Hermes' latest collection was 100% my jam. From its clean lines (above) to its luxury riffs on sportswear like the baseball tee shirt (below), it's the kind of stuff that I want to wear myself. More outré types could do the suit (below the baseball tee) in yellow, but I'm happy with the drab. Plus, it reminds me of my favourite Jil Sander collection of all time (funnily enough, it was the one designed by her atelier as opposed to her or Raf Simons) –
S/S 2006.
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| Hermes S/S 2013. |
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| Hermes S/S 2013. |
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| Kenszo S/S 2013. |
8. On the flipside, Kenzo's latest was jungle themed, and, like Lanvin, better suited as a wear-one-at-a-time kind of thing, but I'd kill one of those short sleeve shirts. Plus that styling touch of rolled up sleeves over a tee shirt isn't a bad call – I'm going to have to try it myself.
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| Kenzo S/S 2013. |
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| Kris Van Assche S/S 2013. |
9. Kris Van Assche's namesake collection was inspired by the plain white tee shirt this season (
one of my favourite topics), and though it might have been critically panned, I imagine it'll be a commercial success at retail. Who doesn't want good denim and tee shirts?
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| Kris Van Assche S/S 2013. |
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| Paul Smith S/S 2013. |
10. Paul Smith's shows are always a highlight of the Paris week – it's the second to last collection shown (Thom Browne usually finishes things up) and the finale features Sir Paul and all the models dancing on the catwalk. It's great fun. This season the clothes looked just as good as the party.
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| Paul Smith S/S 2013. |
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| Prada S/S 2013. |
11. If nothing else, Prada reassured us that getting old looks like a good time.
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| Z Zegna S/S 2013. |
12. Z Zegna's latest was like Dickie Greenleaf in the techno-future. Who doesn't love boxy jazz suits and short sleeve shirts tucked into high waisted pants?
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| Ami S/S 2013. |
13. Ami's presentation featured Kiwi model Vinnie Woolston, lots of smiles, and unlimited combinations of amazing menswear. My current obsession with chambray is getting out of hand and this didn't do anything to discourage it. I'm going to call it my favourite collection of the season.
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| Ami S/S 2013. |
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